Step By Step Wraith Kit Build – Part VII – Electronics Install

By Axial Staff on Nov 09, 2011

Here is the final installment of our 7 part Wraith kit build series. For this post I will cover the electronics I am using, and placement in the chassis. Wiring this truck is a little tougher then normal, because of the tube chassis and interior tray. Proper planning is needed to pull off a clean install. My first objective with this wiring job was keeping it clean. I didn’t want to see a bunch of electronics or wires while the vehicle is running, it takes away from the overall scale look. The plan was to shoe-horn as much of the electronics as I could under the interior. Here is how it all played out.

For the motor and speed control I went with Tekin’s RS Pro ESC, and 10.5t brushless motor. This combo should give me a decent combo of wheel speed and torque with a 2S lipo. I am using my Futaba 4PK receiver and radio, as well as a Futaba S9452 servo for steering duties.

I used the ESC for mock-up to see where it would fit under the interior before I started wiring everything up. It took a few tries to get it properly positioned so it would fit without interference. I ended up using an AX10 servo mount for the ESC mount. I attached it to one of the holes in the top of the transmission. Then used double stick tape to attach the ESC. Once I finalized the ESC position, I soldered everything up as needed.

A few shots of the transmission and electronics before installing it back into my Wraith.

wraith-kit-268

wraith-kit-273

The wiring……

wraith-kit-270

The ESC shelf……

wraith-kit-274

For the receiver mount I used the stock Wraith electronics box, but modified it a little to work with my set-up. I moved the battery up front, so it is now positioned behind the dashboard. I did this to put more weight bias out front, which will help in technical rock sections. In order to mount my battery up front I knew I would have to fab a battery tray of some sort. After staring at the front of my Wraith for a while it hit me…………just modify the stock battery tray instead. I basically ended up cutting the stock tray in half lengthwise, and bolting it into position where the stock ESC would normally sit in an RTR Wraith. Then added a few pieces of foam to fill any gaps between the tray and battery. I was even able to use the stock battery straps, which was a nice bonus.

A shot of the newly revised battery tray.

wraith-kit-310

You will have to cut away a lot of the interior out front for the battery and tray to clear without issue.

wraith-kit-305

The tray installed…..

wraith-kit-300

A few photos with the battery in place. You can also see the new hole I added to the lid of the receiver box, this just made the wiring job a tad easier, and it moved my servo wires away from the battery tray as well.

wraith-kit-290

wraith-kit-292

Time to re-install the body panels, and it’s ready to go!

wraith-kit-281

I will have action shots and video soon, so stay tuned!!

Axial Wraith Kit Build Series

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6


14 Comments:

  1. Default_avatar Rad'ney Posted on 2011-11-10 00:19:03

    Like the battery tray mod – awesome stuff!

  2. Default_avatar ScottAnthony Posted on 2011-11-11 07:40:52

    Pretty good idea…….I’ve had mine apart a dozen times and seems to be hard to work on and now you loose the use of your servo area for the dig.

    Forward battery plate is much better than stock……I cut the lower window brace to get my fat fingers in there.

    …..Are you going to discuss how to remove the hood and loose the screws, to get to the battery now?

  3. Default_avatar Philgood Posted on 2011-11-17 16:55:12

    I do the same mod for the batt. I put 3 small metal plate(2 short plates on the shock support location, and one long plate on the front)

    I stick 4 rare earth magnets on the hood (they are 8lbs capacity each)

    The hood clap when I installe it.

    The good thing is I use my hood to put all my screws when i repair something in the wood. It’s impossible to loose a screw because every screw stick on the magnets. If you loose a srew just have to scan the floor with the hood and the hiden screws will stick on the hood magnets.

    My 2 cents.

    By the way Bender still my mentor since my first ax10!!!!

  4. Default_avatar Duffster Posted on 2011-11-19 15:21:17

    Where were you able to get that “revised” battery tray?

  5. Default_avatar Bender Posted on 2011-11-21 08:44:05

    It is just the stock battery tray cut in half lengthwise.

  6. Default_avatar Bender Posted on 2011-11-21 08:44:36

    Love the magnet idea, great tip.

  7. Default_avatar Bill Hammond Posted on 2011-12-30 18:50:39

    I have a very lightly used 10.5 with a 13mm high torque rotor that was raced once in my MOD SCT 4×4 and the tekin RS….. What gearing did you decide to run…. I am going to do some “mild crawling” and some antics on fairly loose stuff….. I have a 90 spur in it now….

    Also, did you do any “advanced setup” to your Tekin (timing, boost?)

    Great authoring of a very nice build thread!

    I am a huge Axial fan… I have a SCX10TR (I pull a boat with it and do some scaler runs), SCX10 (two kits) built into a dually with a Top Kick body (I pull a 65″ Whitebone 1260GN Gooseneck trailer – long enough to put my scaler and boat (on trailer) on)

    And now, the Wraith…..

  8. Default_avatar Bill Hammond Posted on 2011-12-31 05:23:18

    You can bolt on stock Axial body post mounts to some of the unused locations and ditch the screw on hood for body clips….. I like the Magnet idea posted in another verion (part) of this thread…. Use magnets to keep the hood on, and it functions as a “screw tray” for when you are working on your rig!

  9. Default_avatar Bender Posted on 2012-01-03 10:19:43

    I am running the stock Wraith gearing that comes with the kit, 20t pinion and 80t spur. I haven’t messed with the timing in the motor at all. On 2S it crawls pretty good, and still has decent wheel speed. I think with your 90t spur it will be where you want to be, as it will crawl quite a bit better in technical situations.

  10. Default_avatar Lawrence B. Pajel Posted on 2012-01-07 22:10:27

    …will this 3s lipo battery fit using the halved stock battery tray mod?…here’s the link that has its dimensions: http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-sl4000-3s1p-40c-3333-hardcase.html

    …how about this one? http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-sl5000-3s1p-40c-3333-hardcase.html

  11. Default_avatar Lawrence B. Pajel Posted on 2012-01-23 03:05:04

    Do you have 2 external Caslte BECs to power your 2 servos for 4WS? I’m told that the Tekin RS Pro’s advertised 6.0V/3.0V isn’t really accurate. I was hoping I would only have to use 1 CC 10A BECdirectly wired to the front servo (Hitec HS-7955TG) and use the Tekin RS Pro’s internal BEC for the rear servo (another Hitec HS-7955TG) going through the receiver. So, can the Tekin RS Pro’s internal BEC handle the rear steer? Or, should I solder 2 Castle 10A BECs for front and rear servos? I will be running 3S LiPo with Tekin 13.5 sensored brushless motor.

  12. Default_avatar Bender Posted on 2012-01-23 09:55:55

    I am not running a BEC on mine, and it will glitch in hard binds when using 4ws because of it. The Tekin RS Pro will handle one high torque servo without a BEC ok on it’s own on 2S. But, I would suggest using a BEC to power one of the servos, if not both when using 3S, because of the extra voltage.

  13. Default_avatar Casper Hansen Posted on 2012-04-11 13:39:31

    Hi Bender!

    Have you tried to watter prof the tekin system??

    Iam getting the same set up just with a 13.5 tuns motor and i would love it to be water prof.

  14. Default_avatar Bender Posted on 2012-04-12 07:45:45

    I haven’t tried waterproofing this system. I am not sure if this motor can run in water or not.

Leave a Comment:

Name
Email
URL (optional)
Content