XR10 Build – Part 4 – Chassis Assembly

By Axial Staff on Aug 30, 2010

For this installment of our XR10 build, I will cover the assembly of the chassis and link installation.

First thing’s first, tear open Bag “G” and dump it’s contents into your parts tray.

xr10-build-rcc-727

Grab your front axle and a pair of upper suspension links. Slide the long 30mm screw through the ears, and rod ends, in the top cap. Use one of the thin M3 Nylock nuts to secure the upper links to the axle. Take note that there are standard M3 Nylock nuts, as well as thin low profile M3 Nylock nuts for this step.

xr10-build-rcc-746

Here you can see the difference in thickness between the two different versions of the nuts.

xr10-build-rcc-735

Next install the lower links, and shocks. Insert the straight rod end of the lower links into position on the axle housing and secure them both with the supplied hardware. Here is a shot of the front axle with the links and shocks installed.

xr10-build-rcc-757

Repeat the last 2 steps for the rear axle.

xr10-build-rcc-762

Now it’s time to start assembling the chassis. Open Bag “H” and grab the required chassis components for this step. Build your front shock ears per the instructions and set them aside for now. Meanwhile, assemble the rear shock ears and attach them to the chassis plates. Take note that the chassis is not symmetrical.

xr10-build-rcc-778

Next up we will grab the passenger side chassis plate, skid plate, and battery tray. Attach the skid plate to the chassis with the supplied hardware. Then grab the battery tray and attach it to the chassis. Note that the battery tray gets sandwiched between the chassis plates and shock ears.

xr10-build-rcc-784

Now you can install the 2nd chassis plate as required.

xr10-build-rcc-799

xr10-build-rcc-815

Time to install the body posts next. This step is pretty straight forward. One thing I can suggest is tilting the body posts a little so they point towards the front and rear axles just slightly.

xr10-build-rcc-819

xr10-build-rcc-828

Now we will move on to the electronics tray. First thing we need to do is apply the small thin strip of foam to the bottom of the tray. This foam will help prevent dust and moisture from entering your receiver box if you crawl in less then ideal conditions.

xr10-build-rcc-842

xr10-build-rcc-846

I am setting this XR10 up for dual speed controls, so I used the ESC mounting tab that allows you to install dual Tekin FXR’s. Attach the mounting tab to the radio tray using the supplied hardware.

xr10-build-rcc-860

xr10-build-rcc-871

Next we can set the receiver box o-ring into place and attach the lid.

xr10-build-rcc-878

xr10-build-rcc-889

Install the bottom cap for the radio box. Don’t forget to apply the last piece of foam to the cap before installing it, and make sure your foam orientation is right before you apply it.

xr10-build-rcc-900

Install the cap as required.

xr10-build-rcc-905

xr10-build-rcc-915

Next we can install the radio tray into the chassis and secure it with the 4 supplied flat head screws.

xr10-build-rcc-920

Now we can install the body posts.

xr10-build-rcc-934

Time to bolt up the axles.

xr10-build-rcc-941

Front axle will be first. Pop the wire stays into place on the upper links. Take note there are 2 different sizes and they have to go in their specified locations.

xr10-build-rcc-953

xr10-build-rcc-961

You can hook the links and shocks up to the chassis in any order. I chose to do the lower links first, then the upper links, and shocks last.

xr10-build-rcc-969

xr10-build-rcc-972

xr10-build-rcc-986

Moving on to the rear axle. Pop the wire stays into place as required on the upper links. Then install the links and shocks.

xr10-build-rcc-989

xr10-build-rcc-995

And your done!!

xr10-build-rcc-1003

That takes care of the chassis and links. We are almost finished! The last post will cover the beadlocks.


1 Comments:

  1. Default_avatar Jerry Fishbeck Posted on 2010-09-04 23:09:46

    When you install the 30mm screw for the front upper links, the end of the screw and nut can rub against the servo and/or the servo wires. Just reverse the screws direction and the head will give better clearance

Leave a Comment:

Name
Email
URL (optional)
Content